Marseille done the right way: the best things to do, spots to eat, and places to stay in this dazzling city in the south of France.
Every summer as a child, my family and I hopped on a train from Paris and headed south to spend a few weeks in my mom’s hometown, an hour from Marseille. I remember staring out the window during the four-hour journey, watching the scenery go by at 200 kilometers an hour, and seeing the land get progressively drier and the sky progressively more blue. I instantly knew I was in the South of France when I stepped off the train and was welcomed by the loud and insistent buzzing of cicadas and hit by a wave of humidity and salty air filling my nostrils.
Eventually, I stopped going on holiday to my grandmother’s house. Instead, I would head straight to Marseille on my own, excited to get to know the city by myself. I wanted to uncover my favorite beach, terrace, and bar—a secret garden that I call my home away from home.
So, if you’re planning a trip to Marseille, here are the top things to do (and a few to avoid).
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Explore the ‘Coolest Neighborhood in the World’
WHERE: Cours Julien, 6th arrondissement
Cours Julien was once home to the city’s main marketplace, more commonly called “Marseille’s belly.” But around 1960, when the market was relocated to another part of town, the square was left abandoned. That’s when artists, musicians, and other creatives began to take over the place. Over the years, it’s kept its alternative and eclectic soul, and today, the square remains a beloved hangout spot for young people. Case in point: in 2024, the magazine Time Out named the Notre-Dame-du-Mont district—home to Cours Julien—the “coolest neighborhood in the world.”
The best way to discover the area is by wandering aimlessly through the graffiti-covered streets, climbing the iconic Escaliers du Cours Julien, and digging through vinyl shops before settling in at one of the many bars, cafés, or restaurants surrounding the square. Cours Julien transforms into a vibrant hotspot at night, pulsing with music well into the early hours.
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Visit an Abandoned Tobacco Factory
WHERE: La Friche la Belle de Mai, 3rd arrondissement
Near the Saint-Charles train station lies a former tobacco factory that has been transformed into one of Marseille’s ultimate hangout spots. La Friche la Belle de Mai—literally “The Wasteland”—is a multifunctional space that serves both as a cultural complex and a neighborhood community center.
A gathering place for locals and visitors alike, La Friche serves locals with its library, local food market, community gardens, and nursery, but also attracts outsiders for concerts, festivals, plays, art exhibitions, or simply for a drink and a bite. Come sunset, the rooftop is the place to be and be seen. Grab a picnic table or sit on the ground and enjoy the laid-back vibe of the place.
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Visit a Brutalist Architectural Masterpiece
WHERE: La Cité radieuse, 8th arrondissement
Marseille is home to Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier’s most famous work. Built between 1946 and 1952, Unité d’Habitation, also known as La Cité Radieuse, is an apartment complex envisioned by the architect as a “vertical village,” which became a key inspiration for the Brutalist architectural style and philosophy. The concrete structure raised on stilts houses 337 apartments, a restaurant, a bookshop, a grocer, a hotel, a nursery, and a school—all of which are connected by interior “streets.”
Though still a functioning residential building, La Cité Radieuse is also open to the public. Visitors can explore two of its interior “streets” and tour two standard apartments. The rooftop hosts MAMO, a contemporary art center founded by designer Ora ïto, who puts on rotating exhibitions.
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Enjoy the View From the City’s Basilica
WHERE: Notre-Dame de la Garde, 6th arrondissement
Locally known as “Bonne Mère,” meaning “Good Mother,” the Catholic basilica Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde is the most visited site in Marseille and the city’s most iconic symbol. Perched atop the highest point in the city, at 154 meters (489 feet) above sea level, it offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, the sea, and beyond.
The site is steeped in history. Before the basilica, the hill hosted several important structures, including a fort built by Francis I, King of France from 1515 to 1547, to defend against an invasion by Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor. The current basilica was originally an expansion of a medieval chapel, later transformed into an entirely new structure in the Romanesque-Byzantine style.
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Explore Marseille’s Oldest Neighborhood
WHERE: Le Panier, 2nd arrondissement
Le Panier is one of the city’s most charming neighborhoods, as well as its oldest, with a history dating back to 600 B.C.E., when the Greeks settled there. With its narrow, winding streets, colorful buildings, small shops, and quintessential squares, Le Panier has a distinct Provençal village feel that will transport you light years away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Spend the afternoon exploring its hilly streets and getting lost in its charm. The neighborhood is home to the Cathédrale La Major, known for its stunning marble interior, and Place des Moulins, the oldest square in Marseille. When you’re ready for a break, head to Place des Pistoles for a drink on a terrace.
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Learn About Mediterranean Civilizations at a Design-Forward Museum
WHERE: Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations Museum, 2nd arrondissement
Mucem is one of Marseille’s most iconic landmarks. Built at the entrance of the harbor in the Old Port, the striking cube structure enclosed in intricate latticework—designed by Rudy Ricciotti—stands in bold contrast to the surrounding historic stone buildings, such as the neo-Byzantine cathedral and the adjacent Fort Saint-Jean.
The museum features a permanent exhibition dedicated to European and Mediterranean civilizations, showcasing nearly a million objects, artifacts, photographs, and artworks that shaped European culture in modern times. Three costumes from the Paris 2024 Olympic opening ceremony were recently added to the museum’s permanent collection.
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Go For a Hike and a Swim in a Calanque
WHERE: Parc National des Calanques
The region boasts one of France’s 11 national parks: the Calanques National Park. Stretching over 520 kilometers square (201 square miles) to the east of Marseille, the park is home to the breathtaking calanques—narrow, steep-sided limestone valleys shaped by erosion. All year round, locals flock to the calanques for a scenic hike and spend the day on the beach.
Situated between Marseille and the town of Cassis, Calanque de Morgiou is one of the largest and arguably the most beautiful calanque. It’s accessible by bus from the city center, followed by an hour hike. Trust us, the trek is part of the journey—you’ll be awestruck by the beautiful vistas that will guide you all the way down to the beach. Once you arrive, you’ll find an old fishing port with colorful fishing cabins that line the seaside and impressive cliffs that jut into turquoise blue waters.
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Attend a Soccer Game
WHERE: Stade Vélodrome Marseille, 8th arrondissement
Marseille lives and breathes soccer, or football, as the French call it. The local team, Olympique de Marseille (OM), is a historic club and one of the best in the country. OM’s fiercest competitor is Paris Saint-Germain (PSG). Over the years, the two teams’ rivalry has fueled a ferocious competition between the two cities—a clash between the south and the north.
On match day, the entire city dons blue and white, the team’s official colors. The atmosphere in the stadium and in the streets is palpable. Life stops for two hours, and all eyes are turned on the game. Pray that the home team wins, or the city can turn into chaos.
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Spend the Day on an Island
WHERE: Frioul archipelago, 7th arrondissement
No visit to Marseille is complete without spending the day on an island. Just 30 minutes from the Old Port lies the Frioul archipelago, a group of four islands inhabited by no more than 100 people year-round. Completely car-free, they offer easy hiking trails and peaceful beaches. Tahiti Beach is one of the most stunning beaches, renowned for its crystal-clear turquoise waters.
But before spending the day lazing around in the sun, we suggest you make a first stop on the Île d’If, the smallest of the four islands, to visit the famous Château d’If. Built in the 16th century to protect the city from sea-based attacks, the fortress later became a prison. It is most famous for being one of the key locations in Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo.
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Indulge In a Cocktail Crafted By One of France’s Top Bartenders
WHERE: CopperBay Marseille, 6th arrondissement
Just a stone’s throw from the Old Port, CopperBay is a cocktail bar serving some of the town’s most innovative drinks. Created by three friends—one of whom, Aurélie, is ranked among the top 50 bartenders in France—the bar offers a unique cocktail experience.
The menu is full of intriguing creations, with some drinks more closely resembling appetizers than traditional cocktails. One standout is the Roquettini, made with vodka, cherry tomatoes, arugula, white balsamic vinegar, and lemon juice. Other drinks include recreations of the Spanish breakfast pan con tomate or of a famous fig French cookie. The bar also boasts an impressive selection of non-alcoholic options, ensuring there’s something for everyone.
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Visit a Majestic Palace That Served as a Water Reservoir
WHERE: Palais Longchamp, 4th arrondissement
This historic monument, set within a beautiful park that once housed a zoo, is well worth the detour. Originally built in the 1850s to supply Marseille with drinkable water, the palace was constructed over the reservoirs, transforming a functional space into one of leisure and grandeur.
Today, the palace is home to two museums. The Fine Arts Museum, the city’s oldest museum, showcases 17th and 18th-century Italian and Provençal paintings and sculptures in the left wing. In the right wing, you’ll find the Natural History Museum, where you can learn more about the local flora and fauna.
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Have a Slice of Marseille’s True Local Dish—Pizza
While many might assume that seafood dishes like bouillabaisse are a local specialty, the real MVP of the city’s culinary scene is, surprisingly, pizza. More specifically, the “moit’-moit’,” or half-half: anchovies on one side and cheese on the other. This dish was made popular by Marseille’s Italian immigrants who arrived in the city in the late 1800s.
The city’s first recorded pizzeria was La Bella Pizza. Though the original eatery has since closed, the owner’s great-great-grandson reopened a restaurant under the same name, reviving the tradition. But in Marseille, most pizzas are eaten on the go. The city is home to over 50 pizza trucks, which can be found parked all around town.
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Things to Avoid: Buying ‘Fake’ Savon de Marseille
If you want to bring home a little piece of Marseille, you’ll definitely want to get your hands on some Savon de Marseille. This traditional soap, made from olive oil and seawater from the Mediterranean, has been produced in Marseille for nearly 600 years. However, only four manufacturers continue to craft the authentic version today.
The designation “Savon de Marseille” is not legally protected, and anyone can stamp their products with the name. As a result, an investigation revealed that 90% of soap bars sold in the city don’t follow the traditional recipe or artisanal process. To ensure you’re buying the real deal, look for the official logo and check that the ingredient list includes 72% olive oil and five ingredients—no more, no less.
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Things to Avoid: Not Following the Rules in the Calanques
The calanques are among France’s most beautiful natural sites. However, until recently, access to the calanques was not regulated. As a result of overtourism, the national park faces significant challenges. Today, the government is working diligently to protect its natural beauty.
Today, visitors are expected to respect basic rules to help preserve the natural habitat. These include no smoking in the park, no campfires or barbecues, no littering, no picking flowers, no feeding wildlife, staying on marked paths, and refraining from playing music.
Additionally, reaching the calanques typically involves a challenging hike. Visitors are advised to wear sturdy walking shoes, bring sun protection, and carry enough water to stay hydrated.
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Things to Avoid: Drinking Pastis the Wrong Way
Pastis is an anise-flavored spirit and the locals’ drink of choice. But, at a bar, don’t just order a “pastis”—be specific about which brand you want, or you’ll likely be served the cheapest option. The two most popular pastis brands in Marseille are Ricard and Pastis 51—either one will do.
Once you’ve successfully ordered the right pastis, you’ll have to know how to drink it properly. The server will bring you a half-filled glass with pastis and a small water jug on the side. Don’t make the mistake of drinking the alcohol straight—it’s meant to be topped off with water. You can add more water every few sips, but be careful not to dilute the liqueur too much—that’s considered a serious offense!
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Must-Try Restaurant: Le Petit Nice Passedat
WHERE: 7th arrondissement
Chef Gérald Passedat is undoubtedly one of Marseille’s greatest treasures. Born and raised in the city, he is recognized worldwide as a seafood master. He leads the renowned 3-star Michelin restaurant, Le Petit Nice, a family establishment that has been passed down through three generations since 1917.
Chef Passedat’s menu at Le Petit Nice truly celebrates the sea. Located by the seaside in the fishing district of Malmousque, the chef grew up in the kitchen and in the water just below the restaurant. As a child, he would spend his days diving into the sea in front of the restaurant to forage for fresh seafood. His dishes are true masterpieces, designed to be savored by the eyes first, then by the palate.
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Must-Try Restaurant: Sépia
WHERE: 7th arrondissement
Another restaurant serving incredible seafood perched atop the hilltops of Puget. This chic bistro, hidden behind tall trees, almost feels like a treehouse. It’s certainly a hidden gem, tucked away from the commotion of the city. The eatery serves generous dishes full of flavors that Chef Paul Langlère has perfected over time.
The restaurant’s leafy terrace is home to Julis, a popular wine and tapas bar that’s a favorite after-work spot. It’s a convivial place to enjoy a drink and sample the chef’s cuisine in a more casual atmosphere, perfect for those looking to savor a cocktail and a bite to eat before continuing the night elsewhere.
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Must-Try Restaurant: Brasserie Barbotin
WHERE: 1st arrondissement
If you’re craving traditional French cuisine and want a break from seafood, Brasserie Barbotin is the place to go in Marseille. The menu proudly states: “We haven’t invented anything, but we’re doing it well.” And they’re not lying.
Here, you’ll find classic brasserie dishes like sausage with mashed potatoes, onion soup, and beef tartare, all executed to perfection—honest and delicious soul food. Everything is 100% homemade, seasonal, and locally sourced. The prices are reasonable, in true brasserie fashion. Brasserie Barbotin aims to make brasseries cool again, and they’re succeeding
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The Best Budget Hotel: Mama Shelter Marseille
WHERE: 6th arrondissement
If you’re looking for a great budget hotel in Marseille, Mama Shelter Marseille is a top choice. Located next to the trendy Cours Julien neighborhood, it’s not just a hotel—it’s a social hub for both travelers and locals. The space has 127 functional rooms designed in an industrial style by renowned designer Philippe Starck.
Mama regularly hosts events on its rooftop, making it a fun and dynamic place to stay. Guests can enjoy a buffet breakfast, relax at the bar, or dine at the in-house restaurant with dishes elaborated by 2-Michelin-starred chef Guy Savoy. Stylish, affordable, and full of energy, it’s the perfect base to explore Marseille on a budget.
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The Best Boutique Hotel: Tuba Club
WHERE: 8th arrondissement
Tuba Club is the ultimate boutique hotel for a truly unique and intimate stay in Marseille. Perched right on the water, this beach house-turned-hotel was created by a group of friends as a place to relax, connect, and soak in the Mediterranean vibes. With only eight rooms, it’s the most exclusive and laid-back spot in the city, loved by creatives and cool kids alike.
But Tuba Club isn’t just a hotel—it’s a lifestyle. There’s an incredible restaurant celebrating the sea and a beach club, and they’ve even created their own radio station, Radio Tuba, which resonates in the hallways and creates a symphony with the crashing sounds of the waves. Every detail has been carefully designed to craft an atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the world.
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The Best Luxury Hotel: Hôtel Dieu InterContinental Marseille
WHERE: 2nd arrondissement
For a luxurious stay in Marseille, the InterContinental Marseille – Hôtel Dieu stands as the city’s premier home base. Housed in a historic 18th-century building in the Panier, it offers an incredible view of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. The 179 rooms and suites designed by Jean-Philippe Nuel blend contemporary elegance with Provençal charm. Guests can indulge in gourmet dining at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Alcyone or enjoy casual fare at the brasserie, Les Fenêtres. The hotel also features a spa by Clarins, an indoor pool, a fitness center, and a stylish bar. It offers an unparalleled luxury experience that guests won’t soon forget.
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Things to Know
Known as the sunniest city in France, Marseille enjoys an average of 170 sunny days per year, making it a delightful destination to visit year-round. However, if you’d like to beat the crowds, the best time to head to Marseille is during the shoulder seasons, in spring or fall, when temperatures are milder than in summer, typically ranging from 20 to 25°C (68 to 77°F), and the streets and beaches are not as crowded as during summer.
The most convenient way to get around is on foot or by public transport. As with most French cities, driving or taking a taxi is not recommended as the streets are busy, and it can be easy to get stuck in traffic. The metro and bus systems are well-connected, allowing you to reach nearly every corner of the city in no time.
