Explore Naples like a true Neapolitan with insider tips on the best local food, culture, and iconic landmarks.
Naples is a city that seeps into your soul, and for me, it all starts with the memories I have from childhood. I can still picture myself walking alongside my father through Mercato del Pesce “Ncopp’ ‘e mura,” the oldest fish market in Naples. Located not too far from Piazza Garibaldi, this lively market stretches from Porta Nolana to Piazza Guglielmo Pepe. I remember the air filled with the fresh scent of fish, fishermen calling out their wares, and me enjoying a piping hot pizza, a portafoglio, neatly folded to eat on the go.
These vibrant moments shaped my deep connection with Naples. Born and raised here, and even studying its rich history and folklore at university, I can confidently say: once Naples seeps into your soul, your heart is always “azzurro“—no matter where life takes you.
If you’re planning a trip to Naples, here are my recommendations for the best things to do, places to eat, and hotels to stay–plus a few tips on things to avoid.
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Explore Piazza del Plebiscito as a True Neapolitan
WHERE: Piazza del Plebiscito
Piazza del Plebiscito holds a special place in my heart—it’s like stepping into the very soul of Naples. When I was little, it was just a huge parking lot. Can you imagine? But over the years, it’s blossomed into one of Naples’ most iconic spots. This vast square is nestled between the Santa Lucia district and Via Toledo, offering a stunning view of the half-moon-shaped Basilica Reale Pontificia di San Francesco di Paola. The Royal Palace and its surrounding buildings are just as majestic. And the statues of the kings in front of the palace? Neapolitans love to joke about them! From Charles V pointing at the floor saying, “Who peed here?” to Vittorio Emanuele II looking mad, the whole story would have you laughing.
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Enjoy Pizza a Portafoglio in the Unesco Protected Decumani
WHERE: Spaccanapoli; Via Santa Sofia to Via Sapienza; Via Port’Alba to Forcella
If you want to feel the heartbeat of authentic Naples, you’ve got to try pizza a portafoglio in the Decumani area. This is a smaller, foldable version of the Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a wood-fired oven and served piping hot. And the best part? It’s street food! The Decumani area, one of Naples’ oldest districts dating back to the 6th century B.C.E., is UNESCO-protected. As you explore these ancient streets, grab a slice for just €2 or €3, way cheaper than the touristy spots. Trust me, there’s no better way to experience Naples’ vibrant street life and rich history.
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The Authentic Espresso Experience
WHERE: Piazza Trieste e Trento
To truly taste Naples, you’ve got to enjoy an espresso the Neapolitan way: standing at the counter in a family-run bar. Forget the luxury cafés with fancy decor—Neapolitans head to their favorite spots for a quick espresso while chatting with friends and neighbors. The energy in the air is contagious, and it’s the perfect way to experience the city’s heart. And don’t worry if you don’t speak fluent Italian—Neapolitans are always excited to meet visitors and will make you feel welcome, even helping you with a few tips about the city.
One thing to keep in mind: before you drink your espresso, always take a small glass of water. It’s a local ritual that’s said to cleanse your palate and make the coffee taste even better. The best part? It’s not just the coffee—it’s the atmosphere, the friendly faces, and the pure joy of sharing a moment in Naples.
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Museo Cappella Sansevero
WHERE: Via Francesco De Sanctis
Step into the mysterious world of Museo Cappella Sansevero, one of Naples’ most intriguing sites. Nestled behind Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, this chapel is as famous for its art as for the legends surrounding it. Local folklore says the Prince of Sansevero was a powerful wizard who turned his wife and her lover into “monsters“—the Anatomical Machines, two skeletons with arterial systems almost perfectly intact. As a child, I was terrified of these eerie figures, but as I grew older, I appreciated their craftsmanship. Still, I’m drawn to the Veiled Christ and the mesmerizing “Disillusion” statues, where the marble net looks so real it’s easy to see why people believed the prince could turn things into stone.
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Sfogliatella and Tango at Galleria Umberto I
WHERE: Galleria Umberto I
Whenever I was at university, I’d make a habit of stopping by Galleria Umberto I, especially when I needed a little pick-me-up. The moment I walked in, I headed straight to La Sfogliatella Mary for a warm sfogliatella. That crispy, sweet pastry with its delicate layers was always the perfect treat to start my day. Galleria Umberto, a beautiful 19th-century gallery, is more than just a place to shop—it is a spot to people-watch, soak in the atmosphere, and enjoy a few moments of Naples’ charm.
After my sfogliatella, I’d stroll around, window shopping, before hopping on the Augusteo funicular for my next adventure. But the Galleria holds a special secret: underneath, it was once the first caffè Chantant in Italy, where people would gather to enjoy music. Now, it’s a milonga, a place where tango music fills the air late into the night, capturing a hidden piece of Naples’ vibrant soul.
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Take a Romantic Stroll to Borgo Marinari
WHERE: Borgo Marinari
For a truly romantic evening, stroll from Castel dell’Ovo to Borgo Marinari. The stone bridge that connects the castle to Chiaia is considered the most romantic spot in Naples. The castle, built in 1140, has a fascinating legend. It is said that the poet Virgil hid an egg of a siren in its underground chambers, and as long as the egg stays intact, Naples will thrive. Beneath the castle, Borgo Marinari is full of cozy, candle-lit restaurants. Though it’s a bit pricier, it’s well worth it for the experience. My husband and I visit every year for our anniversary, and it’s always magical.
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Climb Secret Stairs to Certosa Di San Martino
WHERE: Largo San Martino
Naples is a city built on layers, and one of the most enjoyable ways to explore its hidden corners is by climbing its historic stairs. The Pedamentina di San Martino is my personal favorite—it’s not only a fantastic workout, but it also offers the best panoramic views of the city. This charming staircase, which dates back to the 14th century, connects Certosa di San Martino to the Quartieri Spagnoli and Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
As you make your way up, you’ll get a real sense of the city’s history, passing by quiet spots and picturesque views. Once you reach the top, you’re rewarded with a visit to Certosa di San Martino, a stunning monastery and museum. Inside, you can marvel at breathtaking artwork, including the oldest nativity scene in Naples, the Presepe Cuciniello. From here, you’ll also enjoy some of the best views of Naples and Mount Vesuvius—it’s a place that truly takes your breath away.
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Discover How Much We Love Maradona
WHERE: Via Emanuele de Deo, Quartieri Spagnoli
If you’re in Naples, visiting Largo Maradona is an absolute must, especially if you’re a football fan. Diego Armando Maradona wasn’t just a player here—he became an iconic figure whose legacy is deeply woven into the fabric of the city. For me, it’s a place filled with personal memories, as my dad would take me to the stadium to watch Maradona play. I can still remember the excitement of seeing him live. The mural of Maradona in the Quartieri Spagnoli beautifully captures his bond with Naples—it’s a stunning tribute to his time here. What’s truly touching is how it has turned into a kind of “shrine” for him. Fans from all over leave scarves, candles, and heartfelt notes, creating a space that honors his memory. It’s not just a mural; it’s a place where the passion and love for Maradona still burn brightly in the heart of Naples.
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Meet ‘O Munaciello at Napoli Sotterranea
WHERE: Piazza San Gaetano 68
Naples has a whole other world hidden beneath its streets, and exploring Napoli Sotterranea is like stepping into a time machine! When I first visited, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but what I discovered was incredible. The underground is a labyrinth of tunnels, ancient aqueducts, and even a hidden Roman theater—how cool is that? One of the most fascinating things I learned was about ‘O Munaciello, a ghostly figure said to haunt the underground. My husband’s nonna swore that ‘O Munaciello would visit her cellar, which always gave me chills! The tour of Napoli Sotterranea takes you through ancient cisterns that once held water, underground gardens that are surprisingly lush, and even a War Museum that gives you a glimpse into the city’s wartime past. It’s an unforgettable way to explore the hidden side of Naples, and it truly offers a unique perspective on the city’s history.
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Find Jorit’s Street Art
WHERE: Via Duomo; Via Taverna del Ferro; Piazza Garibaldi
If you love street art, you’re in for a treat in Naples! The city is filled with vibrant murals, thanks to Jorit Agoch, one of the most famous street artists in Italy. His powerful work can be found all around the city, and his murals of San Gennaro and Maradona are especially iconic, reflecting the pride and passion of Neapolitans. For me, though, Jorit’s tribute to the beloved musician Pino Daniele holds a special place in my heart. Pino’s music is an integral part of Naples’ soul, and seeing it immortalized in Jorit’s art feels deeply moving. What’s so great about Jorit’s work is that it goes beyond just the art itself—it speaks to the younger generation of Neapolitans, who are reclaiming the city’s narrative and expressing their pride in a modern, creative way. His murals are a celebration of Naples’ culture, past and present, in the most beautiful way.
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Meet the Neapolitan ‘Capuzzelle’
WHERE: Via Fontanelle 80
Cimitero delle Fontanelle is one of those places that many tourists don’t know about, but it’s an essential part of Naples’ fascinating folklore. This ancient ossuary houses thousands of bones, many of them belonging to those who died from the plague or in war, as well as the poor who couldn’t afford a proper burial. The skulls, known as “capuzzelle” in Neapolitan dialect, are treated with the utmost care by Neapolitans, who leave flowers, gifts, and prayers for them. What makes this place even more meaningful to me is how my university professor wrote a book about Cimitero delle Fontanelle. Speaking so passionately about it that it sparked my own curiosity about Naples’ history and folklore. There’s a unique belief here: if you care for one of the skulls, the spirit might grant you health, wealth, and happiness. It’s a powerful connection between the living and the dead, rooted deeply in the city’s traditions.
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Discover ‘A Fenestella e Marechiaro
WHERE: Via Marechiaro
Marechiaro is one of those magical places in Naples that feels like stepping into a postcard. My husband and I love to visit it for a simple coffee with a view, whether it’s daytime or evening. It’s a quiet fishermen’s village that has been a source of inspiration for songs, love stories, and even marriage proposals for centuries. I remember, on one of our visits, we sat by the water, soaking in the charm of the place and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. It was a very romantic evening. The song “Marechiare” speaks of a small window from which you could see the sea, and that very window still stands today, with a marble plaque commemorating the lyrics. For me, Marechiaro holds a special place because of its nostalgic, timeless beauty, and the way it captures the essence of Naples. A place where the past, present, and future blend together perfectly. It’s always a highlight of our trips!
13 OF 25
Taste the Authentic Pizza Fritta
WHERE: Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio
Neapolitans don’t just love pizza—we’re absolutely obsessed with pizza fritta! This fried version takes street food to a whole new level. It’s made with the same dough as traditional pizza, but it’s filled with delicious ingredients like pork rinds (cicoli), ricotta, and pepper, then deep-fried to golden perfection. One of my favorite places to get it is La Masardona, a family-run spot that has been serving pizza fritta since 1945. My husband introduced me to it, and it’s become a regular stop for us whenever we’re in Naples. My personal favorite is the “La Completa,” which is filled with provola cheese, ricotta, cicoli, pepper, fresh basil, and just a spoonful of tomato sauce. It’s a truly indulgent, comforting dish that embodies the heart and soul of Neapolitan cuisine. If you haven’t tried it yet, you’re missing out on a quintessential Neapolitan experience!
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Window Shopping at Via Toledo
WHERE: Via Toledo
If you’re in Naples, you absolutely have to visit Via Toledo—one of the best shopping streets in the city. I’ve walked along this street countless times, enjoying the mix of old-world charm and modern energy. It’s a place where I can easily get lost in the variety of shops, from those selling beautiful leather gloves to those offering delicious fine chocolate. And the Toledo Station? It’s a work of art, with its stunning tiles and design, making it a must-see stop along the way. Whenever I’m in the area, I love to take a stroll, do some window shopping, and just soak in the atmosphere. It’s a perfect blend of history, culture, and style, and always feels like the true heart of Naples. For me, it’s one of those places where every visit feels like a little adventure!
15 OF 25
Enjoy a Secret Racy Art Exhibition at MANN
WHERE: Piazza Museo 19
A visit to the Museo Archeologico di Napoli (MANN) is a must for anyone interested in the city’s rich history, and it’s not just about the famous artifacts. For me, it’s always been a place where I can get lost in the ancient world of Pompeii and Herculaneum, but there’s a hidden gem inside that often gets overlooked—the “Gabinetto Segreto” (Secret Room). This mezzanine floor is dedicated to erotic art, showcasing everything from intricate mosaics to provocative sculptures. When I first visited, I was surprised by how playful and cheeky this section of the museum was—it certainly adds a fun twist to your cultural exploration! I remember laughing with my husband as we wandered through the collection, which is only open to visitors over 14. It’s a quirky little piece of Naples’ history that many skip, but trust me, it’s worth checking out for its fascinating, unexpected side.
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Things to Avoid: Don’t Ask for Ketchup or Mayo on Your Pizza
Last summer, a TikTok challenge went viral, with tourists in Naples asking for mayo or ketchup to be slathered on their Neapolitan pizza. They even filmed the horrified faces of waiters when they made the request, sharing the videos online for laughs. Needless to say, we Neapolitans didn’t find it funny. It felt pretty disrespectful to our culinary traditions, and it caused quite the uproar. Now, here’s the thing: even if you think a little extra sauce might make your pizza even better, please—don’t. It’s not just about the pizza; it’s about the respect we have for our food. If you ask for ketchup or mayo, we might think you’re trolling us, even if that’s not your intention! To this day, whenever that “scandal” comes up, you can bet people in Naples are still a bit touchy about it. So, let’s just stick to the classic, delicious pizza as it was meant to be.
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Things to Avoid: Don’t Ignore Street Traffic
I must confess—I’m a decent driver, but I absolutely hate driving in Naples. It makes me nervous, anxious, and downright scared. That’s why I always opt for public transport—way less stressful! The traffic here can be chaotic, to say the least. Sadly, not everyone respects the rules, so it can be dangerous just to cross the street. We Neapolitans have our own way of doing it: we make sure to lock eyes with the driver to know they see us before stepping onto the road. And don’t get me started on the scooters—those guys think they can fly, zipping between cars as if they can make space just by glaring at the traffic! So, a little tip: if you’re visiting, skip the car rental and be extra careful when dealing with street traffic. Did I mention I really hate driving in Naples?
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Things to Avoid: Be Cautious in Crowded Areas
Like in any big city, Naples has its share of pickpockets, especially in the more crowded areas. Streets like Via San Gregorio Armeno (also known as “Christmas Alley”) or the narrow alleys of the Decumani can get packed, and that’s when you need to be a bit more vigilant. I always tell people—avoid wearing flashy stuff like Rolex watches, gold necklaces, or anything too attention-grabbing. Keep your bag close and your belongings secure, and you’ll be just fine. The key is staying aware of your surroundings. Neapolitans are friendly and warm, but in the hustle and bustle of these busy spots, it’s easy to forget that some people might be looking to take advantage of the crowds. If you’re careful, you’ll enjoy all the magic Naples has to offer, without any worries.
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Must-Try Restaurants: Pizzeria Trianon
WHERE: Via Pietro Colletta, 44
Pizzeria Trianon holds a special place in my heart—it’s where my family and I would go whenever we decided to spend the entire day exploring Naples on foot. It’s not just a meal; it’s a part of our memories. Unlike the touristy spots, Pizzeria Trianon is much less famous among visitors, but for us Neapolitans, it’s the real deal. Authentic, no-frills, and full of charm. Located right in front of Teatro Trianon, a historic theater where legends like Eduardo Scarpetta, Eduardo De Filippo, Totò, and Mario Merola performed, it has a deep connection to Naples’ cultural history. The place itself isn’t fancy—just marble tables, a simple menu, and pizza made the same way it was 100 years ago. They’re known for their “pizza a rota ‘e carretto,” a pizza so big it can’t even fit on a regular plate! Their Pizza Margherita and Pizza Marinara are absolute must-tries. It’s pure Naples, in every bite!
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Must-Try Restaurants: Tandem Napoli
WHERE: Via Bernini; Piazza del Gesù; Via Paladino; Via Mezzocannone
Here in Naples, Sunday lunches are all about two dishes: ragù Napolitano and la Genovese. These traditional meals are a labor of love, taking hours to cook to perfection. Ragù is made with pork and beef, simmered in rich tomato sauce, while Genovese is made with beef and a mountain of onions—no tomatoes, just pure, flavorful goodness. If you’re visiting, you absolutely must try both, and Tandem Napoli is the perfect spot for an authentic taste. The small but cozy restaurant serves pasta with either ragù Napolitano or Genovese, and both are simply delicious, without any shortcuts. The best part? It’s not too expensive for such high-quality, traditional food. Since it’s a popular spot, it can get crowded, so we always aim to arrive by midday for an early lunch to avoid the rush. Trust me, if you want to experience true Neapolitan comfort food, Tandem is the place to go!
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Da Corrado
WHERE: Via Foria
My dad has always been a huge fan of fresh fish, especially mussels, which are a true Neapolitan staple. In fact, my nonno’s favorite dish was pasta con fagioli e cozze (pasta with beans and mussels), an old Neapolitan classic. So, since I was a little girl, both my dad and nonno would treat us to dinner at Da Corrado, a tiny family-run restaurant in the oldest part of Naples. Back in the day, there was no space for tables inside, so they’d set them up on the stairs of the nearby Botanical Gardens. In the summer, we’d eat fresh fish under the stars, and it was magical! While the place has expanded a bit since then, it hasn’t lost its charm or its amazing flavor. The fish is still incredibly fresh, and if you want to enjoy mussels, Da Corrado is the place to be. I love their Soutè di frutti di mare, with mussels, clams, garlic, olive oil, and a touch of chili—pure comfort in a bowl!
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Best Budget Hotel: Hotel Piazza Bellini
WHERE: Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli
If you’re looking for a budget-friendly place to stay in Naples without sacrificing style or comfort, Hotel Piazza Bellini is a fantastic choice. Located right in the heart of the old city center, it’s within walking distance from the National Archaeological Museum and the Museo metro station, making it super convenient for sightseeing. The hotel offers both rooms and apartments, perfect if you’re planning to explore the Decumani area or visit Museo Cappella di San Severo. The building itself is a beautifully restored 16th-century gem, and inside, you’ll find a cool mix of modern art and Neapolitan charm. There’s even a real vintage Vespa in the lobby, alongside lush Neapolitan gardens and a “Calcio Balilla” (football table), a nostalgic treat for anyone from my generation. Though now I guess they’re considered “vintage,” which makes me feel a little old! It’s the perfect spot to enjoy Naples without breaking the bank.
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Best Boutique Hotel: Fly Boutique Hotel
WHERE: Piazza Mercato
Fly Boutique Hotel is a charming and stylish option in Naples, offering a great blend of comfort and location. Located in Piazza Mercato, home to the oldest farmer’s market in the city, it’s an ideal spot for those wanting to experience authentic Neapolitan life. The hotel is easy to reach from Duomo metro station and just a stone’s throw from one of Naples’ hidden gems: the Basilica del Carmine Maggiore. Inside, you’ll find the famous “miracle crucifix.” According to local legends, in 1439, a cannonball was fired at the crucifix, but Jesus on the cross lowered his head to avoid being hit. The next day, when the attacker tried again, the cannon misfired and killed him. It’s a fascinating story, and the church is a must-see! The hotel also offers a delicious breakfast, usually served on a terrace with beautiful city views, and easy access to public transport—perfect for exploring Naples.
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Best Luxury Hotel: Grand Hotel Vesuvio
WHERE: Via Partenope
If you’re looking for a luxurious stay in Naples, the Grand Hotel Vesuvio is the place to be. This iconic hotel has long been the choice of heads of state visiting the city, and for a good reason. Located in the picturesque Santa Lucia district, it offers rooms with views of Castel dell’Ovo, Mount Vesuvius, and the stunning Gulf of Naples. The hotel, one of the oldest in the city, has been welcoming guests since 1882—Oscar Wilde and Gabriele D’Annunzio were once regulars! The roof-garden restaurant is dedicated to the legendary tenor Enrico Caruso, who always stayed here when in Naples and even spent his final years at the hotel. The experience here is truly one of a kind, combining history, elegance, and breathtaking views, making it the perfect choice for anyone wanting to indulge in the best Naples has to offer.
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Things to Know
When visiting Naples, there are a few tips I’d recommend for making the most of your time here. First of all, don’t even think about renting a car! While public transport is solid, driving in Naples can be a nightmare. Traffic is intense, parking is scarce, and the stress just isn’t worth it. From a Neapolitan’s point of view, the best months to visit are May and June. The weather is pleasant, not too hot, and the crowds are much more manageable. It’s also when prices are slightly lower, so you get to enjoy the city without the summer price hikes or the packed streets of Easter. As for food, you’re in for a treat: Naples is all about delicious, affordable eats. Street food is fantastic, and the local osterias tucked away in the narrow streets serve up meals just as good as the famous spots, without the tourist prices and the crowds!