From which Colosseum tickets you should book to the top tips for avoiding tourist traps, here’s an insider’s guide to the Eternal City.
I know it’s cliché, but I fell in love with Rome on my first visit. Wandering around in awe of the Baroque fountains and sculptures, weathered buildings in saturated hues of ochre, and impeccably dressed Romans, I just knew I had to live here. That was more than 15 years ago, and after many visits and a two-year stint living here, I made the move permanently in 2019 and still love the Eternal City despite its flaws.
Locals often compare Rome to a lasagna because it was built in layers over the course of more than 2,000 years. That’s what makes this city so fascinating–the deeper you dig, the more you’ll discover. As a travel writer based in Rome, it’s my job to stay up to date on the hottest new hotels, best restaurants, coolest bars, and cultural attractions, but it’s also a personal passion. Here are my insider tips for your next trip to Rome.
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Colosseum
WHERE: Colosseo
Obviously, on your first trip to Rome, you need to visit the Colosseum. Started in 72 C.E. by the emperor Vespasian and finished in 80 C.E. by his son Titus, this impressive amphitheater was used for much more than gladiator fights. What you need to know is that the type of ticket you book will determine how much of it you can see. The basic ticket costs €18 and includes access to the first and second levels and the museum, plus the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, but I recommend booking a ticket that includes the underground to see where animals were kept and gladiators trod, or the attic level for excellent views.
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Roman Forum and Palatine Hill
WHERE: Ancient Rome
Once the beating heart of the Roman Empire, the Roman Forum lets you imagine what life might have been like here during antiquity. Most guided tours of the Colosseum also bring you to the Forum and the Palatine Hill, which is where powerful emperors like Augustus built their palatial homes. A good tour guide will show you the highlights—the Arches of Titus and Septimius Severus, the Temple of the Vestal Virgins, and the Via Sacra—but you could spend hours or even days here. There’s some signage, but you’ll get more out of it if you go with a guide who can bring the site to life.
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Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica
WHERE: The Vatican
The Vatican Museums receive around 30,000 visitors per day in peak season, so the crowds can get overwhelming. I’ve been lucky enough to do a 6 a.m. tour with the clavigero (the key keeper) as he unlocks the doors to the museum, so I can tell you from firsthand experience that seeing Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel empty is one of the most incredible experiences you can have in your life. Those VIP tours don’t come cheap, though—expect to pay upwards of $350 if you can find any availability at all. The next best thing to do is to book the very first timed entry slot or check for late opening hours. Afterwards, be sure to visit St. Peter’s Basilica to gape at its sheer scale and the incredible artworks inside.
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Galleria Borghese and Villa Borghese
WHERE: Villa Borghese
Fresh off a renovation, Galleria Borghese contains one show-stopping work after another, but the building itself competes for your attention. I could spend hours in here just staring up at the frescoes on the ceilings, marveling at the sculptures by Bernini and Canova, gazing at paintings by Caravaggio, and looking down at the ancient Roman mosaics on the floors—and that’s just on the ground floor. The upper floor contains paintings by Raphael and other masters. Pro tip: Book the last time slot of the day, and as the museum starts to empty out, you’ll find yourself alone with the masterpieces. Be sure to spend some time exploring the beautiful Villa Borghese park before or after you visit the museum.
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Tour the City on Two Wheels
It’s not just in the movies—locals know that the best way to get around this traffic-clogged city is on a Vespa or other motorino. I wouldn’t recommend trying to drive one yourself unless you’re willing to risk life and limb, but there are a couple of companies that will let you hop on the back and take you for a ride around town. I always recommend Scooteroma’s private Vespa tours to family and friends—and everyone raves about them. Alternatively, Vespa Sidecar Tours offers group tours at a lower price point. If you go with a friend or family member, one person will ride in the sidecar and the other on the back of the driver’s Vespa. Both are great ways to get your bearings, so I recommend doing a tour as soon as you arrive.
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Trevi Fountain
WHERE: Trevi
This monumental fountain is justifiably famous, but the crowds have become so intense that the city recently created a barrier between the piazza and the fountain. There was talk of charging an entry fee, but for now it’s still free. However, if you want to get up close to the basin in order to toss in a coin, you’ll have to wait in line. My best advice is to go as early as you possibly can—around 8 a.m. or even earlier if you want to avoid the crowds. Otherwise, plan to go late at night, when the fountain is illuminated and you can channel Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni. Just don’t wade into the fountain like they did or prepare to get fined.
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The Pantheon
WHERE: Piazza Navona
The Pantheon is the city’s best-preserved ancient temple because it was consecrated as a church before it could be sacked and used as a quarry, as so many ancient temples were after the fall of the Roman Empire. It’s truly an architectural marvel: the diameter of its dome is exactly equal to its height, giving it perfectly harmonious proportions. Not to mention the fact that the dome is largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, with an oculus that lets in the sunlight (and the rain). Inside, you can pay your respects to Raphael and Victor Emanuel II, the first king of Italy, who are buried here. When I’m in this area, I like to stop by La Tazza d’Oro for an espresso or granita di caffè con panna (essentially a frozen espresso slushy with whipped cream).
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Piazza Navona
WHERE: Piazza Navona
It’s easy to be bowled over when seeing this majestic baroque piazza for the first time. Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers is truly awe-inspiring—and unlike the Trevi Fountain, you can walk around it and admire it from every angle. Fun fact: the piazza was built on top of an ancient racetrack, which is where it gets its long oval shape. Most of the restaurants and cafes right on the piazza are tourist traps, but there are some great places to eat and drink on the side streets. My favorites are Bar della Pace, which recently reopened after being closed for years, and Ristorante Santa Lucia, which has a romantic outdoor terrace.
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The Spanish Steps
WHERE: Piazza di Spagna
Designed by an Italian and funded by a French diplomat, this famous staircase gets its name from the Spanish embassy to the Vatican on the piazza. It’s been a favorite gathering place for centuries, and even though it’s now forbidden to sit on the steps, people still love to take photos of them. The piazza and the surrounding streets have become famous for designer stores, but there are still some independent boutiques in the area, like Schostal, which has become a cult favorite for pajamas. In the 1800s, this area was nicknamed “the English Ghetto” because it was so popular among British aristocrats and romantic poets. You can still find traces of that history at the Keats-Shelley House, Babington’s, and Hotel d’Inghilterra.
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Piazza del Popolo
WHERE: Piazza del Popolo
Once considered the northern gateway to the city, Piazza del Popolo is one of Rome’s most impressive squares. The Egyptian obelisk and fountain with four sphinxes right in the center of the piazza have steps where you can sit and rest your weary legs after hours of sightseeing, but there are also some really special things to see and do around the square. Climb up to the Pincio Terrace for fantastic views or sit and have an Aperol Spritz with a side of people watching at Canova, which was once filmmaker Federico Fellini’s haunt. Just a couple of blocks away is Via Margutta, known as the artist’s street which still has art and design galleries–Fellini used to live at no. 110 with his wife, Giulietta Masina.
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Visit Aristocratic Palaces
One of my favorite things to do in Rome is visit museums inside aristocratic palaces, which tend to be smaller and less crowded than the city’s main sights. Palazzo Colonna, which is still partly inhabited by the noble Colonna family, is the most opulent, but the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on Via del Corso is a close second in my opinion. Upstairs, it has a hall of mirrors that’s like a smaller version of the one in Versailles. Palazzo Altemps near Piazza Navona is worth seeing for the frescoes in the loggia—and the collection of ancient sculptures is impressive too. Then there are Palazzo Barberini and Galleria Corsini, which together compose the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica. And don’t forget Villa Farnesina in Trastevere, where Raphael and his students painted eye-popping frescoes depicting the marriage of Cupid and Psyche.
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Visit Local Markets
Aside from the city’s traditional trattorias, the markets are among the best places to get a taste of la cucina romana. The city’s oldest market is the one in Campo de’ Fiori, but it’s lost some of its appeal because of vendors hawking cheap bottles of limoncello and spice mixes to tourists. For a more authentic experience, head to the Mercato di Testaccio, where you can see fruit and vegetable vendors, cheese mongers, and butchers, and can get some of the city’s best pizza al taglio at Casa Manco or try a panino filled with tripe at Mordi e Vai. Just keep in mind that most markets are only open in the mornings and may be closed on Sundays.
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Eat Your Fill of Gelato
Is there ever a bad time for gelato? I don’t think so. Just don’t fall for the industrially produced stuff, which usually appears piled high and sometimes sports bright, unnatural colors to attract unsuspecting tourists. Real, artisanal gelato made using natural ingredients comes in more muted colors and sits flat in metal containers, which keeps it cold and fresh. My favorite gelateria hands-down is the Gelateria del Teatro near Piazza Navona, but I also love the old school vibes and ample flavors at Giolitti near the Pantheon. Every Roman has their favorite—ask around for suggestions and try them all.
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Relax With an Aperitivo
Sitting down for an aperitivo is a beloved pastime all over Italy, but I think Romans have perfected it. Whether you go to a no-frills bar for a €5 Aperol Spritz or splurge on a €25 cocktail at one of the city’s swankiest rooftop bars, aperitivo is meant to be a time to catch up with friends and family over a pre-meal drink. And because this is Italy, there are always some snacks involved. These can range from peanuts and potato chips to canapés by Michelin-starred chefs—and generally they’re included in the price of a drink. On the affordable side, I recommend Ai Tre Scalini, a classic wine bar in Monti. For an unforgettable experience, book a table at the Court, which serves creative cocktails with knock-out views of the Colosseum, or Chorus Café, a hidden gem near the Vatican with a glamorous vibe and cocktails by one of the best bartenders in the city.
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Explore Trastevere
Most of Rome’s major sites are located in and around the centro storico, but you’d be remiss not to cross the Tiber and spend some time wandering around Trastevere. Once a working-class neighborhood and a bohemian enclave, it’s got those quintessential village vibes, with cobblestone streets and ivy-draped weathered buildings with laundry hanging out the windows. Nowadays, Trastevere is a major hub for restaurants and bars, so it can get crowded and noisy in the evenings. To see the neighborhood when it’s calmer, go during the day, when you can visit a museum like Villa Farnesina or Galleria Corsini and have lunch at an old-school trattoria such as Da Enzo al 29.
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Shop for Unique Souvenirs
Skip the souvenir shops selling cheap trinkets made in China and pick up something special at one of Rome’s independent boutiques. From beautiful stationery to jewelry, there’s something for everyone—and every budget. You could pick up a hand-carved marble plaque with a witty Roman saying at La Bottega del Marmoraro on Via Margutta; buy a book, poster, or tote bag at Booktique near the Pantheon; or go home with a chic bag from the cult concept shop Chez Dédé. For jewelry, Co.Ro makes unique pieces inspired by the architecture of the city’s monuments, while Serra sells necklaces and other items made with ancient Roman coins. Talk about a one-of-a-kind gift!
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Things to Avoid: Tourist Trap Restaurants
If you want to eat well in Rome, avoid the tourist traps hawking frozen food to tourists at jacked-up prices. How can you tell them apart from good restaurants? If there’s a big menu in English outside, a guy trying to lure you inside, or a big window where you can see ladies making fresh pasta, it’s probably a tourist trap. Instead, do some research and make reservations. The most authentic restaurants—from casual trattorias to fine dining restaurants—book up in advance, so you won’t get a table without a reservation. Keep in mind that most traditional Roman restaurants start serving dinner no earlier than 7 p.m. (and that’s considered early to Roman standards), so places that serve dinner before that are catering to tourists.
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Things to Avoid: Getting Pickpocketed
If you ask me, the risk of getting pickpocketed in Rome has been exaggerated by the media and social media influencers, but it can happen. You don’t necessarily need a specially designed purse or fanny pack, but it’s a good idea to use a crossbody bag with a closure and keep it in front of you, with your hand on it in crowded places. If you’re carrying a larger bag, keep it right under your shoulder. Don’t put your wallet or phone in a coat pocket or back pocket when in crowded places, including on the metro and buses. And always keep an eye on your bag in restaurants and bars.
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Things to Avoid: Fare Dodging on Public Transit
Theoretically, it’s easy to ride Rome’s buses and trams without paying since the drivers don’t collect tickets, but it’s not worth the risk. Plus, since the entire public transit system now accepts contactless payment, you have no excuse for fare dodging. Ticket controllers will randomly come onto the buses to check, especially on tourist-heavy routes. They speak enough English to issue you a fine, and no amount of pleading or crying will work on them. A ticket costs €1.50, but if you don’t have a validated ticket, you can be fined €54.90. It’s just not worth taking that chance.
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Must-Try Restaurants: Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
WHERE: Campo de’ Fiori
Originally opened as a deli, Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina became a restaurant when the family decided to stick a few tables in the back of the shop and serve classic Roman dishes. Now one of the hottest tables in town, Roscioli still makes a carbonara that’s considered the benchmark for all others. In order to avoid getting overwhelmed by the vast selection of cheeses and charcuterie, which you can see up front, keep things simple by starting with the mozzarella di bufala from Paestum and their selection of traditional Italian salumi, followed by the carbonara. They also have a bakery and café nearby.
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Must-Try Restaurants: Pianostrada
WHERE: Trastevere
Now in a new location in Trastevere, Pianostrada is still the city’s best creative bistro if you ask me. Self-taught chef Paola Colucci makes the most divine focaccia, which she tops with various ingredients (fresh zucchini blossoms, anchovies, and stracchino cheese, for example). Her menu changes with the seasons, but you can always find the signature spaghetti with tomato sauce, smoked ricotta, parmigiano, basil, and lemon peel. The shabby-chic décor, with mismatched vintage furniture, an open kitchen, and plenty of potted plants, makes this a memorable place for a fantastic meal. I always bring visiting friends and family here, and everyone loves it.
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Must-Try Restaurants: Pizzeria L’Elementare
WHERE: Trastevere
One of the next-gen pizzerias popping up all over the Eternal City, Pizzeria L’Elementare makes thin-crust Roman-style pizza with premium toppings. Start with some supplì (in addition to the classic one with rice, tomato, and mozzarella, they have versions made with tonnarelli cacio e pepe, or a cube of fried lasagna), then choose from one of the classic or seasonal pizzas. The parmigiana di Noantri with semi-dry tomatoes, eggplant, stracciatella, basil, and burnt eggplant chips is a personal favorite. There are a handful of locations, including one in Trastevere and one with outdoor seating in the Parco Appio near the Appia Antica, which is great for families with kids.
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Best Budget Hotel: The Hoxton Rome
WHERE: Parioli
British brand the Hoxton brought a dash of 1970s style to Rome with this hip hotel in the upscale residential neighborhood of Parioli. The spacious lobby lounge is filled with art tomes, potted plants, and comfy sofas arranged in seating nooks that are ideal for coworking and socializing. The main restaurant, Elio, collaborates with up-and-coming Roman chefs to offer creative dishes in addition to offering international staples like a Caesar salad and burger, while the casual café, Cugino, serves coffee, freshly baked pastries, and aperitivo. The location is a bit far from the tourist sites, but if you’re looking for a stylish, affordable hotel in an authentic Roman neighborhood, the Hoxton Rome is my top pick.
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Best Boutique Hotel: Donna Camilla Savelli
WHERE: Trastevere
Housed in a 17th-century convent designed by baroque master Borromini, Donna Camilla Savelli by the Italian brand VRetreats is a tranquil haven just steps from the action in Trastevere. A recent renovation enhanced the style and comfort of the lobby and rooms, some of which were carved out of the old nuns’ cells. The gourmet restaurant, il Ferro e il Fuoco, serves elevated Italian dishes, while at the more casual Garden restaurant, you can enjoy an excellent carbonara paired with a local wine from Lazio. When the weather warms up, both restaurants have seating in the peaceful garden, where magnolia trees and hedges bloom.
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Best Luxury Hotel: Hotel de Russie
WHERE: Piazza del Popolo
A home away from home for rock stars and Hollywood celebrities, this 19th-century hotel that once hosted Picasso is now run by the Rocco Forte Hotels group. While some of the city’s newcomers feature flashy, over-the-top design, the Hotel de Russie is more about quiet luxury, with elegant rooms and suites featuring timeless furnishings and pops of color. No doubt the place to be is in the verdant tiered garden, where you can sip a signature Stravinskij Spritz at the ground-floor Stravinskij Bar and enjoy acclaimed chef Fulvio Pierangelini’s ravioli cacio e pepe at Le Jardin de Russie restaurant above it. New this year is the Aquazzura Bar, whose menu focuses on tequila cocktails and Latin American small plates.
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Things to Know
Navigating Rome isn’t too difficult, but there are some things you need to know. Uber drivers must be licensed professionals, but you can use the app to call a taxi. Otherwise, look for a taxi stand designated by an orange sign, call the central dispatch (+39 063570), or use an app like ItTaxi or FreeNow. There are three metro lines that stop near sights like the Vatican, the Spanish Steps, and the Colosseum. Tickets cost €1.50 and are valid for 100 minutes on a combination of metro, trams, and buses.
The best times to visit Rome are spring and fall for the best weather and moderate crowds. Summers tend to be hot and crowded, except August, when Romans decamp to the sea and many small businesses close. Winters are generally mild and are really the only season when the city gets a respite from the crowds.