The best things to see, do, and eat in Greece’s iconic capital city.
Athens and I have been together almost three decades. Aussie-born with Greek roots, I was smitten with the rough-around-the-edges city the moment I stepped onto the airport tarmac and breathed in the steamy summer air. Sure, we share a love/hate relationship. Motorbikes blaring outside my apartment window drive me mad. Wonky sidewalks planted with trees make traversing the city center difficult. Summer traffic forces me to slow to a halt and swear under my breath.
But then I escape the urban madness with a mind-cleansing dip in the cool, clear waters of Vouliagmeni Bay. I take a late-night stroll down Dionysiou Areopagitou Street and peer up at the illuminated fifth-century Parthenon. A friend invites me to her wine bar in the Acropolis neighborhood. And I find myself wrapped up again in Athens’ arms, oblivious to her maddening dichotomies. Blinded by her many charms. I can’t help but love this city, despite its flaws.
So, here’s my guide to navigating the best of Athens, including the top things to do, the must-try restaurants, lovely hotels for any budget, and a few tips to help you artfully dodge the not-so-great.
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The Acropolis
Everyone comes to Athens to scale the sacred UNESCO World Heritage-listed Acropolis, a rocky hill where the Parthenon towers over the city. It’s incredible to think modern-day engineers can only hazard guesses at how their predecessors built the 5th-century marble wonder dedicated to the city’s patron, goddess Athena. Beyond the Parthenon, pore over the Temple of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion, which was built in 420 B.C.E. in honor of Athena and Poseidon.
To avoid cruise ship group tours, time your visit for the late afternoon. Arrive an hour or so before sunset, and you’ll witness the monuments light up with a fiery glow. On the Acropolis’ north side, an elevator is available for people with disabilities. To prevent bottlenecks, visits are timed and limited to one hour. And it’s best to book tickets ahead of time.
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Acropolis Museum
WHERE: Makrygianni
Athenians are rightly proud of the Acropolis Museum, which houses some of antiquity’s most significant treasures–all discovered on the sacred hill. As you approach the simple yet elegant four-level Bernard Tschumi-designed building, you’ll find yourself on a glass walkway atop archeological excavations of an ancient Athenian neighborhood. On the first-floor Archaic Gallery, glass windows allow natural light to illuminate the marble sculptures within. There are several 6th-century B.C.E. kore, statues of women wearing draped clothing and intricate braids. Among the highlights are the five female Caryatid statues that stood on the Erechthion’s south porch. On the third floor, relief-carved marble blocks of the Ionic frieze that surrounded the Parthenon, in direct line of sight, are on display. Look closely for plaster copies replacing those exhibited at the British Museum.
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The Greek Evzones
WHERE: Syntagma Square
Central Syntagma Square is host to the austere-looking Hellenic Parliament building. There, in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the changing of the presidential guards takes place every hour. Greece’s Evzones, a ceremonial unit, are handpicked soldiers who don traditional costumes featuring characteristic white skirts with 400 pleats, which represent the number of years Greece was under Ottoman rule. In wartime, blades were hidden in their pom-pom-tipped shoes. On Sundays at 11 a.m., a military band accompanies the Evzones as they march from the military barracks behind the Parliament along Vassilis Sofias Avenue to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. For the best view, be there at least 40 minutes in advance.
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The Plaka Neighborhood
Sure, Athens’ old town, Plaka, throngs with tourists in the summertime. But even Athenians admit to being entranced by its village atmosphere, where narrow, winding pedestrianized alleyways are draped with bougainvillea in shades of magenta, white, and hot pink. Pastel-hued neoclassical buildings, some of them homes to the fortunate few, flank streets ascending toward the Acropolis. There are romantic cafes like Kimolia and Melina serving thick Greek coffee and syrupy kataifi. Home-spun eateries like Evgenia (To Paradosiako) and Platanos serve honest traditional Greek fare, like mince-filled cabbage rolls and tender oven-roasted goat.
In Plaka’s uppermost reaches, you’ll find Anafiotika, where it feels like you’ve landed in a traditional Cycladic village. In the mid-19th century, marble workers, carpenters, and stonemasons from the remote island of Anafi were recruited to rebuild Athens. When accommodation became scarce, they built simple island-style homes, painted in white or ochre. Today, you can wander through this neighborhood, where some 45 listed houses remain, bedecked with potted plants in every color.
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The Ancient Agora
WHERE: Monastiraki
Founded in the mid-6th century B.C.E. in the northwest of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora was the beating heart of Athens for more than four centuries. During the Classical and Hellenistic periods, it served as the city’s political, administrative, judicial, commercial, social, cultural, and religious center. Persian troops raided the site in 480 B.C.E., reducing many buildings to rubble. What quickly followed was a hive of reconstructive activity closely linked with the rise of democracy. Among structures built in the 5th and 4th centuries B.C.E. that still stand today are the well-preserved Temple of Hephaistos, the Tholos, and the Bouleuterion. In the latter, a 500-member deliberative council convened, represented by 50 councilors from each of Athens’ 10 tribes. Don’t miss the Stoa of Attalos, which hosts ancient finds. In summer, stroll the Ancient Agora early in the morning, shortly after it opens at 8 a.m., when there are fewer visitors and temperatures are considerably cooler. Book tickets online in advance for a timed visit, maxing out at an hour.
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The Monastiraki Neighborhood
Neighboring Plaka is Monastiraki, a mix of cultural relics, commerce, and cool bars. The area takes its name from a monastery, but all that remains today is the humble 10th-century Pantanassa basilica, situated on Monastiraki Square. This is flea market central. Rows of vibrant stores sell everything from souvenirs to streetwear and rugs. Eclectic record stores like Mr. Vinylios and Zaharias Records await vinyl enthusiasts. Vintage aficionados can spend a couple of hours browsing the antique shops lining the tail end of Ermou Street and in and around Avissynia Square. Rare porcelain, dusty books, and lamps can be found there. But they don’t come cheap. On Sundays, an en plein air bazaar comprising curios of all kinds stretches south of the square to the Thissio neighborhood. At night, Monastiraki’s rooftops come alive with open-air bars, such as Attic, which boasts views of the Parthenon and Lycabettus Hill.
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Panathenaic Stadium
WHERE: Pangrati
Stand before this hallowed all-marble stadium, built in the 4th century B.C.E. and revamped for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896, and try not to feel chills. Today, the Panathenaic Stadium, locally known as Kallimarmaro, serves as the finish line for the Athens Marathon, held annually in November and attracting over 21,000 runners. But you don’t need to run the marathon to set foot on the legendary track. Take your pick from 5km and 10km road races, while youngsters can compete in a 1.2km event. If you can’t make it to this annual event, the stadium is open to visitors year-round. Aim to be there in the early morning during warmer months and in the late afternoon during cooler times of year. Alternative Athens offers an Olympic workout at the site, which includes discus and javelin throw training at a 19th-century gym. The Panathenaic Stadium also occasionally hosts concerts featuring renowned artists.
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Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
WHERE: Kallithea
Since its 2016 opening, the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center has proven a boon for Athenians starved for green spaces. This Renzo Piano-designed multi-functional space combines arts and culture, recreation, and education, just a half-hour by bus or 10 minutes by cab southwest of the city center. Stroll through the sprawling Stavros Niarchos Park and breathe in the aromas of indigenous Greek herbs and plants from throughout the Mediterranean. On the Great Lawn, free concerts, yoga classes, and kid-friendly film screenings are frequently staged. Youngsters adore the Flintstones-style wood-built playgrounds and interactive musical garden. SNFCC is also the home of the Greek National Opera, hosting ballet, opera, and concerts for adults and children. As the sun goes down, head up to Faros, the highest vantage point, for a coffee and views of the Saronic Gulf. Bicycles are available for rent to tour the property or opt for a complimentary guided tour, which can be booked in advance. Aim to visit on a weekday, when there are fewer visitors.
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Vouliagmeni Bay
WHERE: Vouliagmeni
It’s hard to believe this horseshoe-shaped, tree-lined bay of aquamarine waters, well protected from wind, is a mere 30-minute drive (in light traffic) from the city center. Situated on the Athens Riviera, a 37-mile stretch of southern coastal suburbs, sandy Blue Flag beaches, waterfront restaurants, and stylish cafes, Vouliagmeni Bay feels like an oasis far from the madding crowds. For a budget-friendly swim option, head to Vouliagmeni Akti Beach, where admission includes a sunbed and umbrella, though it’s first-come, first-served. Gather your friends for a game of beach volleyball, let the kids loose on the playground, and bring a picnic lunch to enjoy on the lawns. For a more upscale experience, opt for Astir Beach, which hosts the 6th-century B.C.E. Temple of Apollo Zoster, a ski school, and a designer swimwear boutique. To secure a daybed or front-row lounger, reserve in advance. What you probably don’t expect to find is Lake Vouliagmeni, whose curative thermal springs range between 69°F and 84°F year-round. Keep in mind, summer weekends are busy all along the coast.
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Cape Sounion
WHERE: Sounion
Situated at the southeastern tip of greater Athens, Cape Sounion is a much-loved sunset destination. Lovers, history buffs, and families gather at the Temple of Poseidon, built on a craggy cliff around 444 B.C.E., during the Golden Age of Pericles to honor the god of the sea. Bathed in golden light, its marble Doric columns are a sight to behold. Below the monument lies a small, sandy beach, where the Saronic Gulf meets the Aegean Sea. According to legend, Athens’ King Aegeus waited patiently at Cape Sounion for his son Theseus to return from Crete, where he faced the Minotaur. Theseus had promised his father he would hoist a white sail, denoting success. However, he forgot and left a black sail up. A heartbroken Aegeus assumed his son had died and cast himself into the sea. By some accounts, this is how the Aegean earned its name. Another sunset option awaits at two fine seafront fish tavernas, with temple views, close to the beach. Cape Sounion is about an hour’s drive from the city, while half-day coach tours are plentiful.
Related: The Best Things to Do in Crete (and Top Things to Avoid)
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Museum of Cycladic Art
WHERE: Kolonaki
Among Athens’ most intriguing cultural venues is the Museum of Cycladic Art. This dynamic cultural venue houses one of the world’s most comprehensive private collections of Cycladic art. Perusing the timeless minimalist figurines dating to the 3rd century B.C.E. in the Cycladic Culture section, one of three permanent exhibition halls, you’d be forgiven for thinking they were created today. Spiral hair rings, earrings, and even tweezers are on display. Athenians flock here for the city’s most fascinating temporary exhibitions, which are frequently extended by popular demand. On your way out, make sure to pick up a one-of-a-kind memento inspired by Cycladic art and crafted by Greek designers, on sale at the onsite shop.
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Odeon of Herodes Atticus
WHERE: Historic Center
Erected in the second century, this superb amphitheater, cut from the same Pentelic marble used for the Parthenon, is situated on the Acropolis’ southern slopes. It was named after Herodes Atticus, a celebrated orator, who had it built as a memorial for his wife Regilla. To visit the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, you need to purchase a ticket to one of the many cultural performances held there during the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival. With a capacity of roughly 5,000, the Herodion, as Greeks refer to it, has hosted some of the world’s biggest names in music, theater, and dance. Keep in mind that only flat shoes are allowed. You’ll be refused entry if you show up in heels.
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Lycabettus Hill
WHERE: Kolonaki
At 908 feet, Lycabettus Hill is Athens’ highest point. At the top, you’ll find the humble whitewashed church of St. George and a viewpoint that takes in the Acropolis and as far as Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf. This thickly forested sanctuary is home to birds, tortoises, and other animals. By day, it’s a popular location for joggers and, by night, couples snuggle above the city lights. Dodge the sunset tourist selfie crowd and visit at sunrise. At the open-air amphitheater crowning the hill, concerts are held between spring and fall, featuring all manner of genres, from rock to jazz and Greek blues rebetiko. If you’re in town during Greek Orthodox Easter, watch from above as somber candle-lit processions pass through city streets on Good Friday. Reach the top by cable car, cab, or get in a serious workout with a trek up the steps.
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The National Gallery
WHERE: Ilisia
Culture vultures shouldn’t miss this treasure trove of masterpieces by international and Greek artists, hosted in an imposing building in the heart of the city. The National Gallery’s collections number over 20,000, featuring paintings, sculptures, engravings, and more. Modern Greek art is well-represented, from the post-Byzantine period to the present day. Rare works by Western European artists, such as Delacroix, Caravaggio, and Mondrian, take pride of place in the institution’s permanent collection. Temporary exhibitions are held regularly, highlighting visionary artists from around the world. Admission to the permanent exhibition is free on the first Sunday of each month between November 1 and March 31.
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Food Tour With Culinary Backstreets
There’s so much more to Athens than souvlaki. Delve deep into the city’s fascinating food culture with Culinary Backstreets, who curate some of the Greek capital’s best culinary experiences. Take your pick from the Moveable Sunday Feast, where you’ll meander between family-run dining destinations, sampling dishes like smoky chargrilled lamb chops and wild greens, beloved of Athenians for decades. One of their most interesting walking food tours takes in Exarchia, a neighborhood with a rebellious streak. Stops include an old-school patisserie that serves the creamiest, most delicious rizogalo (rice pudding) in town.
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Things to Avoid: Scamming Cabbies
Most cab drivers in Athens are pretty friendly, but some can be shifty. Taxis in the Greek capital are easily identifiable by their yellow color and signal availability with an illuminated sign. It’s easy enough to hail a cab from the street or at a taxi rank. Your best bet, however, is to use a smartphone app service like FreeNow, which provides driver reviews. Once you get in the cab, make sure the driver has started the meter. Cabs are required to accept debit and credit cards. All are equipped with machines that automatically print receipts. Always ask for one as you never know when you might need the driver’s details. Their number could come in handy if you leave something behind. Keep in mind that fares double between midnight and 5 a.m.
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Things to Avoid: Taverna Touts
Touristy areas like Plaka and Monastiraki have their fair share of touristy restaurants and bars. Do your homework before deciding where to eat in these areas. An easy rule to follow is to avoid those tavernas and other restaurants where touts stand out front and beckon you to come in. It’s no coincidence that the majority of these establishments offer the lowest quality food. Also, any restaurant with photos of dishes posted out front is most likely not the best choice either. Your best bet is to look closely at where locals are eating. Even in neighborhoods with the highest tourist traffic, there are culinary gems hiding in plain sight or down a back street.
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Things to Avoid: Cheesy Tourist Shops
Throughout Athens’ historic center, but particularly on the main thoroughfares of Plaka and Monastiraki, there are dozens of shops selling cheap tourist trash. They’re easy to spot because they carry lurid dime-a-dozen souvenir key rings and plaster statuettes of Hercules made in China. Look a little closer and you’ll discover Athens has plenty of cool concept stores showcasing contemporary Greek design in mementos you won’t regret buying the minute you unpack your suitcase. Take your pick from cool tote bags, stoneware, and handcrafted jewelry. Stores worth checking out include Flâneur Souvenirs & Supplies, Forget Me Not, and Kourbela. Some, like Ere Athens, serve coffee and cake.
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Must-Try Restaurants: Soil
WHERE: Pangrati
Hidden on a tree-lined street behind the Panathenaic Stadium in a lovingly restored neoclassical mansion dating to 1925, this refined yet welcoming establishment is held in high regard among Athenian gourmands. Shortly after opening, Soil earned a Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star, recognizing a serious commitment to sustainability. Chef Tasos Mantis’ ingenious farm-to-fork concept is rooted in seasonality and originality. His father, Babis, lovingly tends an organic farm in Alepochori, west of Athens. Inspired by nature’s generosity, Mantis sources the rarest of Greek herbs, bright edible flowers, and vegetables from the family plot. He looks to Greece’s seas and lakes for dainty prawns, tasty blue crab, and a variety of fish. Among the standout dishes on a generous tasting menu is finely sliced dry-aged beef with cherry and umeboshi gel, served atop a savory pancake. Sweet revelations include chestnut cream with topinambur ice cream and black garlic praline. In summer, an inviting courtyard awaits diners.
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Must-Try Restaurants: CTC Urban Gastronomy
WHERE: Kerameikos
Whether you’re dining within its low-lit, romantic neoclassical interiors or on the open-air terrace in summer, this unassuming restaurant reserves plenty of surprises. At Michelin-starred CTC Urban Gastronomy, chef Alexandros Tsiotinis crafts an elevated take on Hellenic cuisine, with whimsical interpretations of classics and influences from throughout the Mediterranean. Servers present each delicately designed dish in an 11-course tasting menu like a covert gift. Layered elements are revealed with each bite. This is where you’ll find possibly the world’s smallest souvlaki. Also known as pitogyros, at CTC Urban Gastronomy, it’s made with pork rind ballotine, cucumber pearls, pickled onion, and smoked tzatziki. Illustrative of the sommelier’s clever wine pairings is winemaker Chloe Chatzivaritis’ sparkling Migma PetNat Rose, which lends a delicate tomato flavor to this dish. Reimagining Athinaiki salad, a much-loved fish dish served in Athenian homes on festive occasions, grouper is cooked sous vide and then grilled to acquire a smoky taste. Fish collagen replaces the mayonnaise coating.
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Must-Try Restaurants: Manári
WHERE: Pagrati
Self-taught New York-born chef Ari Vezene’s iteration of the Greek taverna is a cheeky wink at tradition. Manári is doggedly old school but with an upstart attitude. What Vezene aimed to achieve was a return to honest, well-prepared taverna fare. And fussy Athenians have given their stamp of approval. The menu is short and sweet, with quality meat sourced from individual livestock breeders that Vezene knows and trusts. Gather extended family or a big group of friends so that you can order multiple dishes for sharing. Finely sliced beef liver is served in tomato vinegar and olive oil with a sprig of oregano. Sourdough bread soaks up the juice of tender lamb kidneys sprinkled with thyme and accompanied by thinly sliced radish. A generous salad of smoked beetroot is served with shredded goat cheese, walnut vinegar, and mint. But the unreserved star of the menu is crisp, chargrilled lamb or mutton chops, which need no embellishment whatsoever.
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Best Budget Hotel: Ergon House
WHERE: Plaka
Thomas and George Douzis, the Thessaloniki brothers behind Greek artisanal food brand Ergon, have made a successful foray into the hotel business after opening delis and restaurants in Greece, the U.K., Cyprus, and the UAE. Ergon House is a hip, four-star hotel designed for foodies. Upstairs, rooms ranging from small to extra large, feature futon-style beds on polished timber, and a minibar with curated deli snacks. Downstairs, an up-to-the-minute agora is stocked with all sorts of Ergon-branded food items, among other goodies. A hearty brunch, including pizza-like peinirli, is served at a buzzing all-day restaurant. In the evening, Ergon House’s rooftop bar Retiré sees guests and locals socialize under starry lights.
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Best Boutique Hotel: Hotel Monument
WHERE: Psirri
Ernst Ziller transformed 19th-century Athens. The German-born architect designed the Zappeion, the Academy of Athens, and the National Library. In 1881, he designed a mansion for a wealthy merchant. Today, this listed building has been thoughtfully restored and converted into a small boutique hotel. Located in the exuberant Psirri district, Monument stands as a haven of high comfort and style. Its grand cream facade and terracotta roof tiles are characteristically neoclassical. Each of its nine high-ceilinged rooms is one-of-a-kind, featuring soft pastels, detailed ceiling murals, and Scandi furnishings. After a long day of museum-hopping, guests can retreat to the spa for a sauna and hammam session, or a customized face or body treatment with locally-sourced essential oils.
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Best Luxury Hotel: Hotel Grande Bretagne, a Luxury Collection Hotel
WHERE: Syntagma Square
Situated at Athens’ most prestigious address, smack bang on Syntagma Square, this exquisite establishment has set the standard for luxury stays in the Greek capital since 1874. Royalty, heads of state, and Hollywood stars bed down at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Athens. Boasting Acropolis views, this 320-room hotel blends old-world charm, sophisticated hospitality, and unparalleled concierge services. GB Roof Garden Restaurant’s menu is strictly Mediterranean, while afternoon tea is served within the regal confines of the Winter Garden City Lounge. Spend an afternoon unwinding at GB Spa with a salt and olive oil scrub and a Swedish massage with essential oils of musk, amber, and vanilla.
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Things to Know
Unless you plan to travel further afield, don’t bother hiring a car to explore Athens. The city center is easily walkable, and the public transport system is efficient and well-priced. Hop on the underground metro, whose stations showcase ancient finds in situ, to move around the city while avoiding traffic. Bus routes are comprehensive. Download the OASA Telematics for real-time arrival information. From Syntagma, board the tram for a leisurely ride that snakes through inner-city neighborhoods before reaching the southern Athens coast.
The best time of year to visit Athens is between October and May. Days are mostly sunny, and temperatures are comfortable. While the lively metropolis has become a year-round destination, late fall and winter are still the quietest times to plan a trip. Queues at ancient sites and museums disappear. Restaurant bookings are easier to come by. It’s also when you can expect to mingle with Athenians, who disappear in droves in summer.