Think you know Kenya’s ‘Big Five’? Brace yourself for a safari where the only thing getting hunted is your hunger.
Ask anyone what defines a Kenyan safari, and they’ll likely drop the Big Five: lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo, and rhino. These animals are the celebrities of the African wild, drawing in travelers from all over the world. But what if I told you Kenya’s culinary scene is equally impressive?
Yes, Kenya offers a unique culinary experience that’ll take you on an unforgettable safari of the senses. I have lived in Kenya for over a year, and learned about the rich traditional and historical roots that have shaped its vibrant culinary identity. After sampling a myriad of delightful Kenyan dishes, I’m convinced that Kenya’s Big Five shouldn’t just be limited to the wild. This piece takes a detailed look at five uniquely tasty dishes served in Kenyan food joints that everyone should add to their “Big Five” list.
Ugali
“It’s like pasta to Italians,” Lupita Nyong’o once said of ugali in an interview with Vogue. The Oscar-winning Black Panther and Marvel Avengers actress, raised between Kenya and the United States, confessed she once didn’t know how to cook it. Her honesty stirred mixed reactions back home because in Kenya, ugali isn’t just food, it represents cultural identity. Kenyans love this dish so much that in some households, it’s even considered a marker of being “nurtured right.”
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Prepared with just maize flour and water by stirring over heat until it transforms into a soft, dough-like mound, ugali is best served hot. It should ideally be firm enough to scoop up stews, yet soft enough to melt into every bite. Its beauty lies in its blank-slate brilliance, which allows it to bring balance and texture to almost every meal.
Like most newbies, the first time I ate ugali, I used a fork and knife. It was not until I embraced the traditional approach of eating with the dominant hand that I got the full, immersive experience. Ideally, you should start by pinching off a portion, rolling it into a ball, then punching a shallow depression into it to scoop accompanying stews or vegetables. Unlike some dishes, ugali allows you to diversify your palate, as you can effortlessly enjoy it with various pairings, such as coconut-based curries, fish stews, and vegetables.
Githeri
Originally from Central Kenya, this tasty, nutrient-dense food has attained almost “stardom” status in Kenya. It’s served everywhere, from rural homesteads to high-end restaurants. At first glance, it’s a simple combination of maize and beans. Yet, its preparation process is anything but simple. It requires an almost meditative cooking approach, whereby fresh corn and beans are initially brought to a boil over low heat. Patience is key to achieving the desired outcome, as the corn should be tender but not mushy, and the beans should be chewy yet creamy. Cooking over low or medium heat ensures the food doesn’t overcook, allowing individual flavors to develop gradually until they achieve the perfect balance.
As a vegan, I found it quite ingenious that the pairing that makes up this dish ensures the body gets a comprehensive dose of proteins and amino acids without having to eat meat. It’s no wonder that many Kenyan athletes and gym-goers prefer this meal. The fact that both maize and beans can be hoarded up for long periods of time with proper preservation techniques ensures this meal is accessible throughout the year.
In many food establishments I’ve visited, this dish is often prepared as a corn, beans, onions, and tomato combo. Its preparation approach is, however, remarkably versatile as different communities often add their own twists. Some Kenyan communities prefer adding coconut milk, others incorporate indigenous vegetables, and some prepare it as a completely dry dish. Given that this delicacy provides a good balance of carbs and protein, many athletes and individuals requiring high energy and muscle support incorporate it into their diets.
Nyama Choma
In today’s world, where most foods are over-seasoned, “nyama choma,” which is Swahili for grilled meat, stands out for its simplicity. Unlike other BBQ traditions, this Kenyan delicacy only requires one to have good quality meat, sufficient heat, and alertness in its preparation. While there’s nothing wrong with incorporating lemon and garlic, most Kenyans love letting the natural flavour of the meat shine through.
In its preparation, the meat is usually grilled slowly over open charcoal. This ensures the final product gets that traditional deep, smoky flavour with crispy edges and juicy, tender insides. In Kenya, there’s an almost ritualistic socialization dynamic when enjoying Nyama Choma, as it’s rarely consumed in isolation. This delicacy is often a centerpiece for gatherings, and it’s in these social setups that important conversations are had and deals are struck.
While you can grill beef or chicken, many people prefer goat meat because of its distinct flavor and tenderness. As accompaniments, many Kenyans prefer ugali and kachumbari (a mixture of onions and tomatoes). You can also add chilli and dress it with lemon juice to give it that sharpness that cuts through the richness of the grilled meat.
Samaki wa Kupaka
“Kupaka” is a Swahili name that means to slather. This fish dish is prepared by coating it with coconut sauce as the primary ingredient, then infusing it with garlic, tamarind, ginger, and turmeric to give it a spicy and tangy flavour. There are different ways of preparing this flavourful dish. The most common method involves a two-step cooking process, whereby the fish is first coated with a pre-prepared sauce and then grilled or pan-fried, before being coated again and lightly grilled. This cooking technique is the most preferred because it creates rich layers of texture that build upon each other.
The roots of this fish preparation technique can be traced back to the East African trading days, when Africans, Arabs, and other cultures from the Indian Ocean interacted. The Kenyan coast was one of the largest trading centers in Africa, and as a result, it has been subject to diverse cultural influences. While this dish is popular in the Kenyan coast, it’s especially popular during Ramadan and other Swahili festivals.
Served with ugali or rice, this dish offers a myriad of health benefits, including: protein from the fish, healthy fats from the coconut sauce, and carbohydrates from ugali. The first time I tasted it was when I was on an unforgettable cruise in the Indian Ocean. It was arguably the best meal I’d feasted on throughout my stay at the Kenyan coast.
Mahamri
Think of Mahamri as the doughnut’s cooler, Swahili cousin. Made with coconut milk, cardamom, and a bit of yeast, these airy golden puffs are a delight to the taste buds. They’re incredibly tasty and richly layered to deliver an unmistakable savoury taste. Being a predominantly coastal dish, mahamri is inspired by a blend of Arabic and Indian influences from the days of Indian Ocean trading.
Unlike doughnuts, this dish walks a fine line between sweet and savory, making it a good accompaniment for a diverse range of dishes. Traditionally, it’s consumed as a breakfast delicacy with tea or coffee. Its savory variation makes it a good accompaniment for “Mbaazi” – a coastal dish consisting of beans prepared with a coconut sauce. This combo is ideal for lunch or dinner because it’s heavy and incredibly nutritious.
Preparing mahamri requires both patience and skill as its dough needs adequate rest to achieve an ideal texture. You also have to be careful when frying it so that you achieve its signature golden color without burning it.
Kenya’s wildlife scene may be impressive, but so is its culinary scene. Like many people who visit Kenya, I came to see its iconic animals. I, however, ended up extending my stay for its culinary delights.