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Queens is NYC’s most diverse borough—and a culinary trip through its enclaves is like a tasting tour of the world.
Queens’s proximity to the airports and comparatively lower cost of living have long made it a first stop for new arrivals, who quickly settle down and become New Yorkers. In recent years, Queens has been christened both the “most diverse county in the U.S.” and the “language capital of the world,” with hundreds of nationalities forming their own tight-knit but welcoming communities, and hundreds of languages or dialects spoken. The multitude of cultures and backgrounds that make up this densely packed borough have also led to a complex culinary mix.
Some of these cuisines, like Greek and Egyptian in Astoria, Indian in Jackson Heights, or Italians in Corona, have been here for generations, while others, like Thai restaurants in Elmhurst, Chinese in Forest Hills, or Himalayan “momo” dumpling shops in what is now called “Little Tibet,” have only cropped up in the last ten years or so. The 7 train, which begins in Manhattan and shoots through multiple neighborhoods before ending in downtown Flushing, is considered the “international subway,” but you can also find great eats along the express E and F and the local M and R trains. One thing’s for certain: wherever you land in Queens, you’re only steps away from something delicious.
1 OF 10
Taverna Kyclades
WHERE: Astoria
Greeks have populated the rest of NYC with the iconic Greek coffee shop, but Astoria is where they cook for each other. Homey restaurants where you can eat grilled seafood and “mezze” appetizers dot this neighborhood just across the East River, and some of its newer residents have gone one step further, opening trendy fusion spots that turn family-style favorites into elegantly plated wonders. One way to tell a good Greek spot from a truly great one is its grilled octopus, and Taverna Kyclades does it right: charred on the outside, meltingly soft on the inside, and with only lemon and olive oil to add further flavor.
2 OF 10
Mombar
WHERE: Steinway
Astoria may belong to the Greeks, but the micro-neighborhood on the upper part of Steinway St. is often referred to as “Little Egypt” for its string of kebab joints, pastry shops, and restaurants that have cropped up around the Al-Iman mosque. The quirky Mombar, along with next-door Kabab Café, represents the culinary output of two brothers–Moustafa and Ali Al Sayed. It’s decorated with textiles, baskets, copper lamps, and general knick-knacks, and its menu is similarly eclectic. The lamb with pomegranate is a perfect melding of sweet and savory flavors, and with rice, veggies, and an appetizer—easily a meal for two.
3 OF 10
Nepali Bhanchha Ghar
WHERE: Jackson Heights
Although this central Queens neighborhood has long been an Indian enclave, it has grown far more diverse over the past two decades, welcoming newcomers from the Himalayas (Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan) who have further enriched the area’s cuisine. As more of Jackson Heights’ traditional curry shops follow their owners to parts of New Jersey like Edison, the neighborhood has been lucky enough to get dozens of momo restaurants where dedicated chefs enclose beef, chicken, or yak in bulbous folds of dough. The best among them, Nepali Bhanchha Ghar, has won the prize at the neighborhood’s annual Momo Crawl three years in a row for its Jhol or soup momos–dumplings in a heady broth of tomato, cilantro, and chili.
4 OF 10
Birria-Landia truck
WHERE: Roosevelt Avenue
Sure, Roosevelt Avenue isn’t a neighborhood, but this thoroughfare under the 7 train has its own distinct personality. Get off at any stop past Woodside-61st St. and you’ll be met with dozens of food trucks and carts selling tacos, some of them Anthony Bourdain-approved. Best of all is food truck Birria-Landia, which found its spot at 77th St. only a few short months ago, and has since been praised in nearly every city food publication. Its specialty is the Oaxacan-style Birria taco, filled with succulent goat (or in this case beef) stew, along with a meaty “consommé” soup to dip it in. Don’t skimp on the pickled onions or hot sauce; they add a masterful touch to an already great meal.
5 OF 10
Eim Khao Mun Kai
WHERE: Elmhurst
Over the past ten years or so, a small but active Thai community has grown in this neighborhood, thanks to its proximity to the airport, large Asian grocery, and, one has to imagine, the generally global vibe in nearby Jackson Heights. The first to crop up was the well-regarded Ayada, which recently opened an outpost in Manhattan’s Chelsea Market. Meanwhile, other tiny spots like Hug Esan and Lamoon specialize in ultra-spicy dishes with ingredients that are rarely seen in New York. But the best may be Eim Khao Mun Kai, a tiny storefront dishing up aromatic Thai-style chicken rice, the chicken sliced and served with its innards, the rice slick with chicken fat, and an addictive ginger chili sauce on the side.
6 OF 10
Marani
WHERE: Rego Park
At first glance, this part of Queens may feel like quite a barren stretch, but wander past the highway and the malls into the side streets and you’ll find a number of kosher restaurants and bakeries, owned by and serving Jews from Russia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia. There are Kazakh kebab joints, Russian bakeries, and Marani: a kosher restaurant split into two levels and two menus to accommodate both meat and dairy meals. There are grilled meat skewers and squishy breads full of cheese, dips of eggplant and walnut, and the irresistible khinkali: crinkled, juicy meat dumplings reminiscent of Shanghainese Xiao Long Bao (soup dumplings) but thicker in texture and gamier in taste.
7 OF 10
Joe’s Steam Rice Roll
WHERE: Flushing
Just a couple of generations ago, this neighborhood at the end of the 7 train was little more than a collection of well-to-do but sleepy suburbs. That all changed in the 1970s, when Korean and Taiwanese immigrants, some shut out of the largely Cantonese-speaking Manhattan Chinatown, opened their very own businesses. Today it feels like a glittering, futuristic, and busy Asian megacity, full of noodle shops, bakeries, and massive underground food courts. It would be impossible to choose just one dish here, but a recent favorite is the cheung fun or rice roll from Joe’s Steam Rice Roll; a chewy, slippery, crepe-like snack made from rice batter ground on-site. Order it topped with meat or shrimp, and with corn, cilantro, and scallions tucked lovingly into its folds.
8 OF 10
Lemon Ice King of Corona
WHERE: Corona
Long before Corona became a destination for Mexican food, it was an Italian enclave, full of old school red sauce restaurants. A few of them are still thriving, but the real reason to come all the way out here on the 7 train is a corner stand quite a walk from the subway. The Lemon Ice King of Corona was founded here in 1944, and still reigns supreme from its perch on 108th St. Order up Italian ices in different flavors, from the handheld to nearly bucket-sized, or double up on two that go well together (they’re loath to mix flavors). Try everything from chocolate to cherry, bubblegum to pineapple, or get the tangy-sweet, citrusy namesake. On a hot summer day, lemon ice is still king here.
9 OF 10
Singh’s Roti Shop and Ba
WHERE: Richmond Hill
This central Queens neighborhood is home to Indo-Guyanese immigrants: Indians recruited to work on plantations in British Guyana over a century ago, who made their way here and opened shops for their beloved home specialties. You’ll see a couple of dishes you may recognize from Caribbean cooking (coconut buns and drinks), a few you may know from Indian cuisine (jalebi sweets), and some that may be new to you (pepper pot: a spicy beef stew). But the thing to get in this neighborhood is the Roti: an Indian flatbread, filled with a curry (goat, oxtail, chicken) with a distinctly West Indian bent, for a meal that is a special kind of New York hybrid. The best place to get it? Singh’s Roti Shop and Bar.
10 OF 10
Memories of Shanghai
WHERE: Forest Hills
Until recently, Forest Hills was a staid suburban community known largely for its Tudor homes and retro vibe. But in the last few years, Chinese restaurants have cropped up to compete with the growing faction in Flushing, including a few stellar Shanghainese eateries. You can now follow Queens Blvd and the parallel Austin St. to hit up noodle joints, bubble tea shops, and bakeries. Memories of Shanghai is arguably the best among them for its Xiao Long Bao or soup dumplings, which you can order with pork, or as the Shanghainese do, with both pork and crabmeat. Have the staff show you how to eat them so you don’t spill the steaming hot broth, and order more than one serving—you’ll want seconds.